Monday, October 18, 2010

Back Up and Running

Just wanted to let you all know that I'm back at it after getting notices that my blog had been flagged for distrubuting malware.  If any of you had issues because of this, I'm really, really, REALLY sorry.  I have to admit to being pretty technologically challenged, and I had no idea this was going on until one of my readers contacted me on the Ultimate Dressage bb to let me know.  I was mortified.  After almost two weeks of stumbling through tutorials and chat rooms and on-line help, I was finally able to find and remove the bad code (it was ridiculously easy once I found the right help site); I blew out all the gadgets or widgets or whatever they're called and decided to use a fresh new template (which I'm still not sure I really like).  I'm still not 100% certain how it happened, but I'm learning how to protect my blog from this sort of infection in the future.  I have a couple ideas rolling around in my head, so as soon as I get a lull in repairs, reflocks and helping customers find saddles, I'll be posting again.

10 comments:

  1. Yay! Every once in awhile I check this blog and see nothign new. lol. So I'm excited that it's up and running again. :)

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  2. Glad you're back... was there a particularly offensive widget? I want to protect my blog and readers from "going bad"...

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  3. Love your blog. I wasn't sure where to post this but I need some help fitting my MW horse in a dressage saddle. I am thinking she needs a hoop tree because my saddles rock/shift. None of the Wintec gullet plates match in angle. I am having trouble finding something even on a 1,500 budget used. Other difficulties include, fact that she isn't a true wide(more of a MW) so a 34cm Duett will be too wide. Not worked much, no topline, hollows behind wither, and in need of pretty flat tree perhaps with gusseted back panels.
    I would appreciate your help. I've had a local fitter come and we weren't able to fit her with a saddle. I am possibly thinking of trying Frank Baines. But need more ideas for used saddles.

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  4. Could you do an article on treeless saddles? Not on cheap brands like Hilason, etc, but focusing on the Bob Marshalls. I ride Western and I know there are more good treeless brands out there in English, but Bob Marshall has the market in Western. I went 'round and round with a mutton-backed 8.5" withered 15h Paint horse. Constantly doing chiropractic work and changing saddles. I went through over 10 saddles. I was suggested a Bob Marshall and she's no longer sore from the saddles and my chiropractic adjustments for her are down to two per year. They're popular in barrel racing which is what I use mine for with a 1/2" 5Star wool saddle pad...

    Thanks!

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  5. Thanks, all - it's nice to be back. Bif, I *think* the bad code was in my karate terminology widget, but I could be mis-remembering.

    Anonymous, if you could send a template of your horse's back and a good conformation photo to the shop (address at www.trumbullmtn.com), I'd be happy to make some recommendations on saddles.

    Victoria, I haven't really addressed the treeless saddle much (I did touch on it in my post "I Think That I Shall Never See ...") because I haven't been overwhelmingly thrilled with the fit of many of them, or the results for the horse. And since I really only know the basic rudiments of western saddle fitting, I think someone with more expertise in that area would be far more qualified to comment/blog on them than I.

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  6. Glad you're back - I check the blog often, and was sad my anti-malware flagged it. I learn so much from the site. Thanks!

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  7. OT but how would you clean REALLY dirty tack. I was cleaning a tail set for one of the girls at the barn (her mom bought it for her used) and the thing is caked with dried sweat and grime. I tried using leather therapy wash and letting it set for a few moments but all that did was soften a layer of the crud. After using the leather therapy wash I could run my finger nail and over the harness and get crud up. The leather is also fairly dry.
    Do I tell Sarah to just keep using the leather therapy wash till the gunk is off? Can she "shave" the dirt off with a razor? Use nails to scrape it up? Any suggestions? I've never seen tack this dirty.

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  8. And now that you're up and running...Can I put in a request for a post about correction pads - when they're useful, when they're not appropriate - your experiences with them in general? Thanks!

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  9. Kaede, I really like Effax Leder-Combi and a terrycloth wash cloth for getting rid of serious dirt. It may take some elbow grease and a few cleanings, but it works well. Just be sure - whatever soap you use - that you wipe all residue away, allow the leather to dry slowly, and condition afterwards.

    Melissa, I did touch on shim pads in my post "To Shim or Not To Shim". If you'd like me to expand or explain something in particular, please let me know, and I'll revisit the subject!

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